To count chainsaw chain drive links, count each pointed link that runs along the chain’s underside once around the loop. These are the small parts that travel inside the guide bar groove; count them, not the cutters or tie straps. [1][2] For more detail, see How to Measure a Chainsaw Chain for a Replacement.
Lay the chain out as a loop and follow the pointed links in order, keeping your attention on the underside. For example, if a cutting tooth catches your eye, skip it and look for the pointed link that fits into the bar groove instead. Count each such link once as you travel around the full loop. [1][2]
That distinction gives you the drive-link total rather than a count of visible cutting teeth or connecting pieces. The number is useful when you need to identify the chain, because drive-link count determines the chain loop’s effective length. [2]
What to have ready before you start
Set the saw on a stable work surface, and keep your hands clear of the cutting edges while you prepare. Don’t rely on the saw merely being idle; take the shutdown steps in its manual so you can work without the chain moving unexpectedly.
If it is already off the saw, lay the loose chain in a loop on a clear surface. A loop keeps the chain together and makes it easier to work around without confusing it with another chain or nearby tools.
Have a marker, a short piece of tape, or a small scrap of paper ready to mark your starting point. For example, place the paper beside one link or use a small mark on the chain, choosing a method that will stay visible as you work. Keep the marker nearby so you can identify the same point when you complete the loop.
How to count each drive link without losing your place
Choose one pointed link on the chain’s underside as your start. Put a small mark beside it or set a marker there so you can recognize the same link when the loop comes around. A strip of tape or a small paper marker can make the starting point easier to see while you work. [1]
Follow the chain around the loop one link at a time. Count only the pointed links that travel inside the guide bar groove; for example, skip over a cutter and continue to the next pointed link. [2]
Mark each counted section as you go, or move counted links into a separate group if the chain is loose. For instance, you might place a small mark after every few links, then count each marked section once; this gives you a clear place to resume if you get interrupted.
Stop when you reach the marked starting link again. Record the total you counted, rather than counting the starting link again when you close the loop. [2]
Check the total against the guide bar marking
Check the guide bar for a stamped drive-link count, then compare it with your manual tally before relying on either number. Some guide bars have the count marked on them, which gives you a useful cross-check. [3]
Compare the marking with your count
Look over the bar for a stamped number that identifies the chain’s drive-link total. If you find one, compare it with the total you recorded while counting. For example, if your tally is 56 and the bar marking says 56, the two checks agree.
If the marking is hard to read, do not guess at the digits. If the number on the bar and your tally differ, count the chain again before using a drive-link number to choose a replacement. A mismatch can come from a missed link or a counting slip, so verify the count rather than choosing whichever number seems more likely.
Once the numbers agree, use the verified total when checking replacement options. If they still differ after a careful recount, pause and check the saw or bar specifications before selecting a chain.
Common counting mistakes to avoid
Avoid counting teeth, connector straps, or bar length as a substitute for the chain’s actual drive-link total. [2][4] These mistakes can give you the wrong number when you are checking a chain or choosing a replacement.
Keep teeth and straps out of the count
A cutter is easy to spot, but it is not a drive link; counting the teeth instead can leave you with a misleading total. [2] For example, if you count each visible cutting tooth as one link, stop and check that you are identifying the parts that run inside the bar groove instead. [2]
Tie straps connect chain components, but they are not drive links either. [2] Don’t treat a strap as an extra link, and don’t count the two sides of a connected link as separate items; that turns one link into two in your tally. [2]
Don’t guess from bar length
A bar’s length alone does not give you a dependable drive-link count, because chain configurations can vary by manufacturer. [4] Two chains intended for bars of similar length may not have the same link total, so avoid using the bar length as a shortcut. [4] Count the actual links on the chain rather than guessing from the bar; if you are unsure, check the bar marking or the saw maker’s specifications.
Use the drive-link count when replacing the chain
Write down the verified drive-link total and use it when choosing a replacement chain. The total is a straightforward count, and some guide bars have the number stamped on them; compare that marking with your count if it is present. [3]
Before ordering, confirm that the replacement also matches your saw’s required pitch and gauge. Treat the drive-link total as one part of the fit check, rather than assuming that a matching count alone is enough. If you are comparing two chains, check each chain’s stated count and pitch and gauge against the saw’s requirements.
If a bar marking is hard to read or unclear, check the saw or guide-bar maker’s specifications before buying. Drive-link counts can vary by manufacturer, so use the specification for your particular saw or bar rather than guessing from another setup. [4]
Keep the verified total with your saw’s model information, or write it on a note you can take to the store. Then check the replacement’s count, pitch, and gauge against the requirements before installing it.